Cattedrale San Lorenzo, Genoa
The austerity of this black-and-white-striped 12th-century structure is enlivened ever so slightly by the fanciful French Gothic carvings around the portal and the presence of two stone lions. A later addition is the campanile, completed in the 16th century and containing at one corner a beloved Genoa artifact -- a sundial known as L'Arrotino (the knife grinder) for its utilitarian appearance.
In the frescoed interior, chapels house two of Genoa's most notable curiosities: beyond the first pilaster on the right is a shell fired through the roof from a British ship offshore during World War II that never exploded, and in the Cappella di San Giovanni (left aisle), a 13th-century crypt contains what crusaders returning from the Holy Land claimed to be relics of John the Baptist.
Fabled tableware appears to be a quirk of the adjoining treasury, including the plate upon which Saint John's head was served to Salome and a green glass found in Caesarea that was thought at one time to be the Holy Grail. The less fabled but nonetheless magnificent gold and bejeweled objects here reflect Genoa's medieval prominence as a maritime power. Entrance is only by guided tour; though the tours are only in Italian, you should take one anyway to get in and be able to look at what's inside.
Quick Facts
| Location: | Piazza San Lorenzo, Genoa, Italy |
| Transport: | Bus: 1, 7, 8, 17, 18, 19, or 20 |
| Contact: | 010-311-269 |
| Hours: | Cathedral: Mon-Sat 9am-noon and 3-6pm. Treasury: by half-hour guided tour only (ask for one when you get there) Mon-Sat 9am-noon and 3-6pm |
| Cost: | Admission to cathedral free; Treasury 5.50€ adults, 4.50€ seniors over 60 and students, 11€ family ticket for 2 adults and 2 children |
Sources
- Frommer's Northern Italy, 3rd Edition
