Hasedera (Hase Kannon Temple), Kamakura
Panoramic view of the Hasedera complex, with the Kannon-do to the left of center. Photo by Stefan Z.
The Hase Kannon Temple or Hasedera, located on a hill in Kamakura with a sweeping view of the sea, is home of a giant statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy.
History
The Kannon statue at Hasedera was made from a single piece of camphor wood in the 8th century. It has quite a legend attached to it, which also explains the "Hase" part of the name. According to the legend, two images were made from the wood of a huge camphor tree. One of the images was kept in Hase (near Nara), while the other was given a short ceremony and then tossed into the sea to find a home of its own.
The image drifted for 300 miles and washed up on shore. However, it was thrown back in again because everyone who touched it became ill or incurred bad luck. Finally, the image reached Kamakura, where it gave the people no trouble. This was interpreted as a sign that the image was content with its surroundings, and Hase Kannon Temple was erected at its present site to give it a permanent home.
What to See
Housed in the Kannondo (Kannon Hall), the golden statue of Kannon is more than 9m (30 feet) high and is the tallest wooden image in Japan. The goddess has 11 heads and each face has a different expression, representing the Kannon's compassion for all kinds of human suffering.
The Kannondo also contains the Treasure House, which has artifacts from the Kamakura, Heian, Muromachi, and Edo periods.
Another statue housed at the Hasedera is of Amida, a Buddha who promises rebirth in the Pure Land to all who chant his name in devotion. It was created by order of Yoritomo Minamoto upon his 42nd birthday, which is considered an unlucky year for men. Amida is housed in the Amidado (Amida Hall) beside the Kannondo.
Along the steps to the Kannondo are statues of a much less monumental size but perhaps greater visual impact. All around are rows of small statues of Jizo, the guardian deity of children. Historically, parents came to Hasedera to set up these statues in hopes the deity would protect and watch over their children.
Today, though, the Jizo statues represent the souls of miscarried, stillborn or aborted children. Some of the statues are dressed in bibs, hand-knitted caps and sweaters. More than 50,000 Jizo statues have been offered here since the war, but the thousand or so here now will remain only a year before being burned or buried to make way for others. Jizo statues can be purchased on the temple grounds.
The temple grounds include an attractive garden and pond, with bamboo water fountain and stone lanterns. Near the pond is the Bentendo, a small hall that contains a figure of Benten (or Benzaiten), a Shinto goddess of feminine beauty and wealth.
Next to the Bentendo is the Bentenkutsu, a small cave with candle-lit sculptures of Benten and other minor gods.
The terrace next to the temple's main buildings provides an excellent view over Kamakura and out to sea. Nearby, a small restaurant offers Japanese sweets like mitarashi dango (rice flower dumplings in a sticky sauce made of sugar and soy) as well as small meals and beverages.
Quick Facts
| Names: | Hase Kannon Temple, Hase Temple, Hasedera, Hase-dera |
| Type of site: | Jodo Buddhist temple |
| Dates: | 8th-century statue |
| Location: | About a 10-minute walk uphill from the Daibutsu or a 5-minute walk from the Enoden Railway Hase Station. |
| Phone: | 0467/22-6300 |
| Hours: | daily 8am to 5:30pm (to 4:30pm in winter) |
| Cost: | ¥300 |
Sources
- Frommer's Tokyo, 8th ed.
- Hase Temple - Japan-Guide.com
