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Iona


Church of Scotland parish church on Iona; Iona Abbey (photos by the author, May 1997).

Iona is a remote, low-lying, treeless island with high cliffs and rolling meadows just off the southwestern coast of Mull. Despite its small size - just 1 mile by 3 miles - Iona has nevertheless played a significant role in the history of Christianity in Britain.

St. Columba, a missionary from Ireland, arrived on the shores of Iona in 563 AD and established a monastery there as a basis for his missions. From Iona, Celtic Christianity spread throughout Scotland and into mainland Europe.

During the Dark Ages, the monks of Iona Abbey preserved the learning that was nearly lost elsewhere. In later centuries, the sacred island of Iona was the burial place of many Scottish and Scandinavian kings.

The island was owned by the dukes of Argyll from 1695, but to pay £1 million ($1.6 million) in real-estate taxes, the 12th duke was forced to sell it to Sir Hugh Fraser, former owner of Harrods. Fraser secured Iona's future and made it possible for money raised by the National Trust for Scotland to be turned over to the trustees of the restored abbey.

Despite the many visitors, the atmosphere on the island remains peaceful and spiritual. After stepping off the ferry amidst turquoise-blue water, you can wander off among the free-roaming sheep and cows past a small village and ancient stone churches to the great Abbey. To really get a sense of the island, walk to the top of Dun-I, a small mountain, where you contemplate the ocean and the landscape in virtual solitude.

Iona is accessible only by passenger ferry (run by Caledonian MacBrayne, tel. 01688/302-017) from the Isle of Mull. Service is informal but fairly frequent in summer. In the off season, transport depends entirely on the weather. The round-trip fare is £4. Call for exact times.


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