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Drepung Monastery (Zhébàng Sì), Lhasa


A HImalayan view from the roof of Drepung Monastery. Photo: OnwardTibet.



Founded in 1416, Drepung Monastery (Tibetan: Zhébàng Sì) on the outskirts of Lhasa was once Tibet's largest and most influential monastery, with over 10,000 monks. Today, Drepung remains an active monastery and attracts pilgrims and visitors from around the world.

Drepung is especially known as the site of the annual Shoton Festival, with its dramatic unfurling of a giant thangka on the hillside.

History

Drepung Monastery
Pilgrims chanting on the steps.
Photo by Pete & Brook.

Drepung Monastery was founded in 1416 by Tsongkapa's disciple Jamyang Choeje, and was the seat of the Dalai Lamas before the "Great Fifth" Dalai Lama built the Potala Palace.

Many buildings survived the Cultural Revolution, but the order now pays a price for its prominent role in the pro-independence demonstrations of 1987.

On September 27, 1987, about 20 Drepung monks unfurled banners and the Tibetan flag, and marched around the Barkhor before being arrested in front of the TAR Government Headquarters.

This was a remarkable action, as the monastic college had sided against independence. Today, a Public Security Bureau compound sits below the monastery, and "cadre monks" keep a close eye on day-to-day activities.

Drepung Monastery view
Drepung Monastery. Photo: Pete & Brook.

With the passing of the charismatic teacher Gen Lamrim in 1997, Drepung lost a major source of income, as the master's lectures drew devotees from all over the Tibetan world. The monastery therefore gratefully accepts donations from pilgrims and visitors.

Pilgrimage

The pilgrim's circuit of Drepung's monastery runs through these sites:

The pilgrimage trail then continues southeast down to the shadowy and enthralling Nechung Monastery (Naiqióng Sì), home of the Nechung Oracle, who is consulted by the Dalai Lama on important matters of state. Separate admission to Nechung is ¥10 ($1.25).

What to See

To the left (west) of Drepung's Assembly Hall is the kitchen, where butter tea is prepared in huge wooden vats. Make the much-needed donations to the monastery here.

Drepung
Drepung Monastery. Photo: Pete & Brook.

The first floor of the Assembly Hall holds a striking statue of Dalai Lama XIII, magnificently lit by filtered sunshine and pungent yak butter lamps.

Readings of the scriptures are often held here at midday, at which time visitors can enjoy the spectacle of novices tumbling over one another in the race to fetch tea from the kitchen for their elders.

Prayer wheels, Drepung
Turning prayer wheels. Photo: Steve Taylor

A chapel to the north of the second floor houses a sacred mirror said to cure the facial diseases of those who gaze into it.

The most revered image at Drepung is a 15m (49-ft.) tall statue of the 8-year old Maitreya Buddha, designed by Tsongkapa and housed in the northwest section of the building. It is usually viewed from the third floor.

You will be offered holy water while at the monastery – cup your right hand above your left, take a sip, and splash the rest on your head.

Shoton Festival, Drepung
Unfurling of the thangka during the Shoton Festival. Photo: Chris Webster.

Festivals and Events

Before the 17th century, Buddhist discipline required monks to stay in their temples for weeks in the summer. This prevented them taking stepping on small creatures outside for a time, and taught them to live in harmony with one another.

When finally allowed to leave their confinement, monks went down the mountains, where laymen would prepare yogurt for them as alms. The monks enjoyed the yogurt and happily celebrated their newfound freedom. This is the origin of the "Xuedun" or Shoton Festival at Drepung, which takes place every August.

Today, the Shoton Festival is a time for monks to go the mountains for contemplation, after which time their families will meet them on the mountainside. Many lay Buddhists make a pilgrimage to Drepung during this time and participate in the festivities, which include performances by the Tibetan Opera.

The Shoton Festival begins with the dramatic unfurling of a giant thangka banner of the Buddha, amidst incense smoke, the sound of bugles, and scripture recitations. People rush to it to make offerings before it is rolled up again in less than two hours.

Map

Location map and satellite view of Drepung Monastery. Using the buttons on the left, zoom in for a closer look or zoom out to get your bearings. Click and drag the map to move around. You can explore all of Lhasa from space on our Lhasa Map.

Quick Facts

Location: 30 min. from Lhasa, Tibet Autonomous Region, China
Transportation: Morning buses (10km/6 1/4 miles, 30 min., ¥3/37¢) depart from west of the Jokhang. Returning to Lhasa, take bus no. 302 from Nechung Monastery, or bus no. 301 from the bottom of the hill.
Hours: 9am-4:30pm
Cost: ¥35 ($4.40)

Sources

  1. Frommer's China, 1st ed.
  2. Drepung Monastery – Travel China Guide
  3. Shoton Festival Tibet - China Highlights
  4. Drepung Loseling Monastery in Tibet – Drepung Loseling Institute

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