Kumari Ghar, Kathmandu
Facade of the Kumari Ghar on Durbar Square. Photo
Wonker.
Recent portrait of the Kumari Devi posted outside the temple.
Photo © Brenda Wilson.
Courtyard of the Kumari Ghar. Photo
Matt Logelin.
Ornate windows in the courtyard. Photo
Dey.
Wooden door in the courtyard. Photo
Dey.
Detail of wood-carved relief over the door. Photo
Zichuan Lian.
Location map and aerial view of Kumari Ghar. For a larger interactive view, see our Kathmandu Map.
A big brick building on Durbar Square in Kathmandu, the Kumari Ghar (or Kumari Chowk) houses the living goddess of Kathmandu. Built in 1757, the temple is known for its magnificent carvings as well as its divine inhabitant.
The Kumari
The Kumari is a young girl who is believed to be the incarnation of the demon-slaying Hindu goddess Durga. Dating back at least to the Middle Ages, the cult of the Kumari is popular among both Hindus and Nepalese Buddhists - another notable example of the mingling of religious traditions in Nepal. There are about 11 kumaris across Nepal, but the Kumari Devi (or Raj Kumari - royal goddess) in Kathmandu is the most important.
The selection process for finding the Kumari Devi resembles that of the Tibetan lamas, who are believed to be reincarnations of their predecessors. She is chosen from girls aged three to five in the Buddhist Shakya clan. Elders meet with hundreds of girls, approving only those with 32 auspicious signs of divinity (mostly to do with natural perfection and symbolically significant features). The girls' horoscopes are also checked to ensure they are compatible with those of the current king.
The small group of would-be goddesses are then placed in a darkened room with freshly severed buffalo heads and dancing men wearing demon masks. This is certainly frightening to ordinary girls under five years old, but the goddess would not be frightened. Therefore the girl who shows no fear is likely to be the incarnation of Durga. In one final test, the girl must be able to pick out the clothing of her predecessor.
Thus discovered, the Kumari moves into the Kumari Ghar and is worshipped as a living goddess. Her needs and those of her caretakers are paid in full by the Nepalese government and she spends most of her time studying and performing religious rituals. She only leaves the temple a few times a year during festivals and her feet must never touch the ground.
The Kumari's reign comes to an end when she menstruates or bleeds for any other reason, including just a minor scratch. The girl reverts to mortal status and the search for her replacement begins. She is given a modest state pension, but may find it difficult to marry - tradition has it that a man who marries an ex-Kumari will die young.
History
The Kumari Ghar, or House of the Living Goddess, was built in 1757 by King Jaya Prakash Malla. Known for his paranoia and weakness, the king offended a Kumari in some way (various stories speak of an act of sexual indiscretion or not believing a particular girl to be the goddess) and was so overcome by guilt that he built a home for her as an act of atonement. The temple was renovated in 1966.
What to See
Overlooking the south side of Durbar Square, the Kumari Ghar is a three-story brick building richly decorated with wood-carved reliefs of gods and symbols.
Tourists can enter the courtyard, where there are more beautiful reliefs over the doors, on the pillars and around the windows. Photos are permitted in the courtyard, but it is strictly forbidden to photograph the Kumari.
The Living Goddess sometimes appears in one of the first-floor windows, especially if her handlers are paid well enough, and is said to answer devotees' questions with the expressions on her face. She is most likely to appear in the morning or late afternoon.
Festivals and Events
The most important festival for the Kumari is Indra Jaatra, a celebration of the harvest held in late August or early September. On the third day of the festival, the Kumari Devi is carried around Durbar Square in a chariot. The chariot is kept next door to the Kumari Ghar and the great wooden yokes from past years are laid out nearby.
In a tradition established by King Jaya Prakash Malla (builder of the temple), the Kumari also bestows a tika (mark of blessing) on the forehead of the king who would reign in the coming year. This tradition was used against the king within a year: he was driven into exile on the even of Indra Jaatra in 1768, allowing the conqueror to take the tika and become the rightful king.
Quick Facts
Site Information |
| Names: | Kumari Ghar; House of the Living Goddess |
| Dedicated to: | Durga |
| Location: | Kathmandu, Nepal |
| Category: | Buddhist Temples |
| Faiths: | Original/Primary: Buddhism Current/Secondary: Hinduism |
| Denomination: | Nepalese |
| Status: | active |
| Date: | 1757 |
Visitor Information |
| Coordinates: | 27.70382° N, 85.306671° E (view on Google Maps) |
| Address: | Durbar Square, Kathmandu, Nepal |
| Photography: | Permitted except of the Kumari herself. |
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Article Sources
Article written by Holly Hayes with reference to the following sources:
- Kumari Devi: The Living Goddess - Visit Nepal
- David Reed, The Rough Guide to Nepal 4 (1999), 94-95.
Article last updated: 05/05/2009.
