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Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion Temple), Kyoto

Ginkakuji in winter, Kyoto
The main pavilion of Kyoto's Ginkakuji in winter. GFDL photo.


Sand garden at Ginkakuji. Photo by solution 63.


Closer look at the sand tower next to the pavilion. Public domain photo.

Ginkakuji
Photo by Yannick Luthy.


Another hall in the Ginkakuji complex. Photo by Vernon Fowler.


The "Sea of Silver Sand" at Ginkakuji. Photo by hyperbolation.



Despite its name, don't expect glistening silver when you visit the Silver Pavilion Temple (Ginkakuji or Ginkaku-ji) in Kyoto. The founder intended to cover the main structure in silver, to match Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion Temple), and named it accordingly.

However, the plan was never carried out. Thus, in a rather ironic twist, the building intended to be a monument to ostentation wound up as a fine example of Japanese refinement and restraint.

History

The history of Ginkakuji begins with Shogun Yoshimasa Ashikaga (1435-90), who commissioned the building as a retirement villa. Construction began in the 1460s, and picked up speed after 1474 when he became disillusioned with politics. Ashikaga then gave his full attention to the building of his villa as well as romance, moon gazing, and the tea ceremony, which he helped develop into a high art.

The shogun never had time to coat his pavilion with silver — which he had intended to do in imitation of his grandfather's golden villa at Kinkakuji — but he oversaw the construction of about a dozen buildings on the grounds. Many were designed for cultural pursuits, such as incense and tea ceremonies.

Upon Ashikaga's death in 1490, the villa was converted into a Buddhist temple, a common practice during the feudal era. However, with the decline of the Ashikaga family, Ginkaku-ji fell into decline, and many buildings were destroyed.

The only original buildings that still stand today are Togu-do and the Silver Pavilion itself. The four other structures on the grounds were built in the 17th and 19th centuries.

What to See

The front room of Togu-do ("East Seeking Hall," a National Treasure) is where Shogun Ashikaga is thought to have lived, and the statue of the priest is probably of Yoshimasa himself. The back room, called Dojin-sai ("Comradely Abstinence"), became the prototype for traditional tea-ceremony rooms.

Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) itself is a simple two-story building. Its appeal lies in its serene exterior, which combines Chinese elements with the developing Japanese Muromachi (1333-1568) architecture. Inside, the upper floor contains a gilt image of Kannon (goddess of mercy) said to have been carved by Unkei, a famous Kamakura-period sculptor. Unfortunately it's not normally open to public view. Also enshrined in the temple is Jizo, the guardian god of children.

Surrounding Ginkaku-ji are lovely Japanese gardens. Attributed to Soami (1465-1523), they consist of two contrasting sections that combine to create a balanced, harmonious result.

The first, a pond garden overlooked by the pavilion, is a composition of rocks and plants designed to afford different perspectives from each viewpoint.

The second garden features two sculpted mounds of sand, the higher one of which may symbolize the sacred Mt. Fuji. It sparkles in the moonlight, giving it the nickname Sea of Silver Sand.

Visitor Information for Ginkakuji

Names: 銀閣, Ginkakuji, Ginkaku-ji, Silver Pavilion Temple
Type of site: Buddhist temple
Faith: Zen Buddhism
Location: NE Kyoto
Address: Ginkaku-ji-cho, Kyoto, Japan
Phone: 075/771-5725
Hours: Mid-Mar-Nov: daily 8:30-5; Dec-mid-Mar: daily 9-4:30
Cost: ¥500
Bus: 5, 17, 102, 203, or 204 to Ginkakuji-michi (10 min); or 32 or 100 to Ginkakuji-mae (5 min)
On foot: Along the Path of Philosophy from Nanzenji

Map

Below is a location map and aerial view of Ginkakuji. Using the buttons on the left, zoom in for a closer look or zoom out to get your bearings. Click and drag the map to move around. For a larger view, see our Kyoto Map or get our free Google Earth download.

Getting There

Take Bus 5 from Kyoto Station to the Ginkaku-ji-michi bus stop. Walk on the street along the canal, going east. Cross a north-south canal and Hakusha Son-so Garden on your right; then continue straight and Ginkaku-ji will be in front of you.

Sources

  1. Fodor's Japan, 17th ed.
  2. Frommer's Japan, 8th ed.

More Information  on Ginkakuji




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