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Nanzenji, Kyoto

Nanzenji Temple, Kyoto
Zen rock garden at Nanzenji Temple. Photo by Dao-hui Chen.


Wooded path at Nanzenji Temple. Photo by Chris Chang.

Sanmon, Nanzenji, Kyoto
The Sanmon (gate). Photo by Dao-hui Chen.


Roof detail at Nanzenji. Photo by Edward Faulkner.


Photo by Erik Dunham.

Inside Nanzenji, Kyoto
Painted panels in the Hojo, Nanzenji. Photo by Hideyuki Kamon.


A tearoom with a lovely view at Nanzenji, Kyoto. Photo by David.


Nanzenji (or Zuiryusan Nanzenji) is a Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, Japan. Emperor Kameyama established it in 1291 on the site of his palace, and it became one of the most important Rinzai temples in Japan.

History

Like the nearby temple of Ginkaku-ji, Nanzenji is a former aristocratic retirement villa that was turned into a temple on the death of its owner.

Emperor Kameyama (1249-1305) built his detached palace here in 1264. He later became a student of the Zen Master Busshin Daimin Kokushi, and he dedicated the palace as a Zen temple in 1291.

Nanzenji went on to become one of the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto. As the headquarters of the Nanzenji branch of the Rinzai school of Zen, it is also one of the most important Zen temples in the world. Throughout its history, the abbot of Nanzenji was always chosen as the best Rinzai Zen Master in each period.

Rinzai Zen was introduced to Japan by the Chinese priest Ensai in 1191 and emphasizes the use of koans, paradoxical puzzles or questions that help the practitioner to overcome the normal boundaries of logic.

The 15th-century Onin Civil War demolished the original temple buildings, but some were rebuilt during the 16th century. The temple's large entrance gate (Sanmon) was completed in 1628.

What to See

You enter the temple through the Sanmon (Triple Gate), the classic "gateless" gate of Zen Buddhism that symbolizes entrance into the most sacred part of the temple precincts. The grand wooden structure was built in 1628 by Todo Takatora in memory of those who died in the civil war.

Don't miss the statue of Goemon Ishikawa, a Robin Hood-style outlaw of Japan who hid in this gate until his capture. From the top floor of the gate you can view Kyoto spread out below. The upper floor also contains Buddha statues and paintings.

Through the gate is the Hojo (Abbots' Quarters), a National Treasure. Inside, sliding doors (fusuma) with impressive 16th-century paintings divide the chambers. These wall panels of the Twenty-Four Paragons of Filial Piety and Hermits were created by Eitoku Kano (1543-90) of the Kano school.

Attached to the Hojo is a Zen garden, known as the "Leaping Tiger Garden." An excellent example of the karesansui style (seen more famously at Ryoanji), the rock-and-gravel garden was created by Kobori Enshu. It has the unusual feature of having its large rocks grouped with clipped azaleas, maples, pines, and moss, all positioned against a plain white wall behind the raked gravel.

Within Nanzen-ji's 27 forested acres is an aqueduct built in 1890 and several other temples, known more for their gardens than for their buildings.

One temple worth visiting if you have time is Nanzen-in, directly behind the aqueduct. Nanzen-in is not as famous as other temples, making it a peaceful place to visit. Once the temporary abode of Emperor Kameyama, Nanzen-in has a mausoleum and a garden that dates from the 14th century; a small creek passes through it. The garden is particularly spectacular with autumn leaves.

Also worth a look is the rarely-visited Konchiin, southwest of the Sanmon gate.

Names: Nanzenji, Nanzen-ji, Zuiryusan
Type of site: Buddhist temple
Faith: Rinzai Zen Buddhism
Dates: Temple founded 1291; rebuilt 16th century; Sanmon built 1628
Location: Nanzenji-Fukuchi-cho, Sakyo-ku, eastern Kyoto, Japan
Phone: 075-771-0365
Hours: Mar-Nov: daily 8:40-5; Dec-Feb: daily 8:40-4:30
Cost: Main temple building: ¥400; San-mon or Nanzen-in: ¥200
Bus: From Kyoto or Sanjo station, take bus 5 and get off at Eikan-mae.
Walk: Nanzenji is within walking distance of Heian Jingu, Chionin and Ginkakuji. It makes a good starting or ending point for a walk along the Path of Philosophy (Ginkakuji is at the other end).

Map

Below is a location map and aerial view of Nanzenji in Kyoto. Using the buttons on the left, zoom in for a closer look or zoom out to get your bearings. Click and drag the map to move around. For a larger view, see our Kyoto Map or get our free Google Earth download.

Sources

  1. Fodor's Japan, 17th ed.
  2. Official Website of Nanzenji
  3. Nanzenji Temple - Yamasa Institute Multimedia Studio
  4. Nanzenji Temple - Japan Reference

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